Top reasons your VW iD4 is not connecting include the following:

• No data connection is available
• Software issue
• Faulty fuse

In this article, we’ll examine why your iD4 is not connecting and how to fix the problem.

No Data Connection is Available

In our everyday lives, we are surrounded by technology. Most of this technology is connected to WiFi in some shape or form. Your iD4 is no different.

But if your iD4 won’t connect, what consequences does that have for your driving experience? No data connection won’t prevent you from selecting Drive or Reverse, but you can’t live without a data connection as many options, such as remote start, won’t be available.

The first thing to try to get it back connected is the ‘Windows’ option. Power everything Off. Wait a few minutes, and then Power everything ‘On.’

Your iD4 only connects if a Globe icon appears at the top of the info screen.

The information on your screen when you start it is:

‘Loading Connection Status.’ If there is a problem, it will flash ‘Unable to Load.’

And the only option available is to Select ‘Ok.’

There are a couple of reasons why the data connection has dropped; the following are tips on how to get you connected:

• Free hotspots are no longer available
• SIM issue
• Dongle issue

The data connection in your iD4 uses one of the above to connect your car.

Free hotspots are no longer available

When you first purchase your iD4, your car is issued with a free hotspot connection. But this service is limited to a certain amount of time (usually a month), and after this time elapses, you must sign up for a subscription or choose an alternative connection.

This is an option through your VW dealership, but using the hotspot on your Smart Phone is easier.

However, this depends on the type of smartphone plan you have. If you have an unlimited data allowance plan, this is definitely worth choosing, but if your data usage is capped at a certain amount each month, you’ll always be watching your usage.

Connecting your iD4 to a Hotspot

To set up a hotspot, it first needs to be activated.

• Activate the hotspot on your device
• On the infotainment screen
  • Select Home – Settings (cog icon) – WiFi
  • Select WiFi Search
  • Select WLAN
  • Select the one you have activated
  • Add the password on the device
  • Confirm with OK

SIM Issue

If you are using a SIM card and find your connection is down, it’s a good idea to reactivate the SIM. This is done through the infotainment screen.

• Insert the SIM card in the SIM slot (you must have a Business Telephone Interface)
• A wizard will then activate
• Select whether you wish to have
  • Data only or Calls too
• Enter your PIN
• Select Connect

Once the SIM is reinstalled, try doing a reboot of the system. This is a step beyond the Power On and Off. To do this:

• Press and Hold the Power button
• The screen will then reboot, and the SIM will hopefully reconnect.

Dongle Issue

Instead of a SIM connection, you might have chosen a Dongle Setup instead. This is the same principle as a SIM card, except it is contained in a Dongle (which looks similar to a flash drive). The Dongle is located in the USB connection.

• Select Home
• Insert the SIM in the interface
• Select Network Settings
• Enter the SIM pin (usually four digits)
• Select Connect

Once again, remove the Dongle and check that the SIM is correctly inserted inside. Check that the connection port is clean and free from dust.

Never stick anything sharp into the port. Suppose it needs a clean use of a soft-haired brush. Even a cotton bud may be too hard and could damage the port.

Software Issue

Your iD4 is, in essence, a high-tech computer. VW constantly tries to improve and update the driver experience and the system, but these updates don’t always go to plan.

Many iD4 owners have reported connection problems, and then the connection problem seems to correct itself. VW don’t always come out and say that an error has occurred and that they are working on it. But if it is a software problem, you can be sure that you’re not the only one experiencing the issue, and the keyboard warriors will be out in force.

The solutions are:

• Try a reboot
• Or wait it out for a couple of days to see does it correct itself

Connection issues will not intrude on your driving but will irritate you as certain options are unavailable.

The solution can often be to connect with your phone hotspot and check for any updates available or that might be pending.

VW software releases are sent regularly, and it’s only after that they realize that there is a bug or error and an extra patch has to be sent through. Most people don’t even realize that a problem has ever occurred.

Faulty Fuse

The fuses in the iD4 are located in a couple of places. If you are uncomfortable with changing a fuse in your iD4, then book an appointment with your dealership to have them look at your connection problems.

There are two fuse board locations in the iD4, under the hood and internally on the left-hand side in the dash panel (for left-hand drive vehicles) and within the glove box (for right-hand drive vehicles). The fuse you are searching for is Fuse 19, which is located in the internal fuse box. (Each fuse box contains a fuse 19, so ensure you pull the correct one).

The fuse puller is located in the Fuse box under the hood.

• Open the hood
• Remove the fuse cover (it can be quite difficult to budge)
• Remove the pullers (usually white)
• Remove the fuse cover internally on the dash or in the glove box
• Before you remove the Fuse, 19
  • Make sure the car is powered off
  • Do NOT sit in the driver’s seat, as this will activate the car
• Remove the Fuse 19
• Wait for 10-15 minutes
• Reinsert the Fuse 19
• Replace the fuse box cover
• Don’t forget to put the fuse puller back under the hood

There are conflicting reports as to whether this will fix your connection issues. But if you are happy enough to try and follow the step-by-step, it’s always worth having a go.

If none of the above have helped in any way, then unfortunately, a trip to your VW dealership for a check-up is called for.

I’ve covered a few other common iD4 issues which you hopefully won’t experience, but if you do, we have you covered with these posts:

• iD4 won’t charge
• iD4 not fully charging
• iD4 won’t unplug
• iD4 won’t stop beeping

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category.

The post iD4 Not Connecting – Top tips to reconnect! appeared first on EVjuicedup.

The VW iD4 has no spare tire but is equipped with a repair kit and three years of roadside assistance.

This article will examine why the iD4 doesn’t have a spare tire, how to use the repair kit if needed, and what to do if the flat is beyond repair.

Why Does the iD4 Not Have a Spare Tire?

The iD4 does not come with a spare tire. This is not unusual in modern cars, both EV and ICE (Internal Combustion Engine). The two main reasons for no spare tires are:

• Weight reduction
• Cost

Weight Reduction

Weight reduction as a reason is more prevalent in an EV, as EV manufacturers are constantly striving to reduce the weight of the car. The weight of an EV is much higher than that of an ICE. An iD4 weighs just under 5000 lbs compared to a VW Tiguan at just over 3500 lbs.

The extra weight comes from the high-voltage batteries in the car’s chassis. To counter the weight of the Lithium Ion cells, VW has removed as much excess weight as they can, and this includes the spare tire. An average spare tire (not a spacer) can weigh as much as 70-80 lbs. The more weight that can be removed improves the range and performance of the car.

Cost

All car manufacturers, including VW, are here to make a profit. Introducing a new model to the market is an enormous undertaking and investment, especially with new EV technology. Anywhere that savings can be made is a bonus.

The cost to the manufacturer of a spare tire is not huge in the overall scheme of things, but if there is no spare tire, then there is also no jack included, which also adds to the savings.

Even Tesla, a pretty expensive model, doesn’t come with a jack; less is more.

It makes me question if an EV is worth the money.

What to Do if Your iD4 has a Flat

There’s never a good time to get a flat tire, but there are usually two different scenarios that occur:

• Slow puncture
• Full flat or blowout

Slow Puncture

All tires are manufactured to a specified tire pressure. This pressure must be maintained, or a warning light will appear. If the pressure begins to drop in one of your tires, your dash will indicate a problem; you must investigate this at the soonest safe opportunity.

Continuing to drive can result in a blowout and loss of control.

• Safely pull over and select the vehicle on your touchscreen
• Select Vehicle Status
• Select tire pressure
• Here the information will indicate which tire has a loss of pressure

Once you know which tire is going down, you can inspect whether it can be reinflated or if you need to call roadside assistance.

If the tire seems to be a slow puncture, you can reinflate it with the tire repair kit. The repair kit and charging cable are located in the trunk (second layer compartment).

The pouch contains a small compressor with a 12V connection and a canister of repair foam fluid. There is a specific way to use the repair kit, and instructions must be followed correctly. There are two types of canisters depending on the year of your iD4. We will discuss the use of each individually.

It’s important to note that the repair kit will have difficulty inflating if your valve is at the bottom of the tire. The car must be moved forward or back to locate the valve towards the top of the wheel.

The canisters differ in their connections. One has a single connection at the bottom, and the other has a yellow cap with a double connection.

Single Connection Canister

1. Remove the pouch from the trunk
   • The contents of the pouch are: Canister, Compressor, Valve extractor, hose connection, spare core
2. Remove the dust cap from the tire valve
3. Remove the valve core with the extractor
   • Place this in a safe place for later
4. Shake the canister vigorously
5. Attach the hose to the canister
   • This will pierce the top of the can
   • Remove the plug
6. Place the opposite end on the tire valve
7. Turn the canister upside down and empty the entire contents into the tire
8. Remove the hose
9. Reinsert the valve core
10. Remove the compressor from the pouch
11. There is a 12V connection in the top left-hand side of the trunk
12. Plug in the compressor
13. Attach the compressor to the tire valve
14. Turn on the compressor
15. Run the compressor until the pressure reaches 29-36 psi
16. Running time is a maximum of 8 minutes
17. Switch off and remove the hose
18. At this stage, it’s best to move the car by 5-10 meters to allow the foam fluid to move around the wall of the tire.
19. Reattach the hose and check the psi.
20. If the pressure has been maintained, then the tire is safe to drive on

At this stage, you should maintain a speed of 50mph and recheck the tire within 10 minutes of driving. If the pressure has dropped below 19psi, the kit has unfortunately not worked, and you must now call roadside assistance. Driving to a tire repair shop is safe if the pressure has been maintained.

Double Connection Canister

The canister with the yellow connection is a better design option as there’s no need to remove valves, and it is less messy.

1. Remove the pouch from the trunk
2. Open the canister packaging.
3. The 12V connection is located at the top left-hand side of the trunk
   • the cable is long enough to reach all four tires
4. Plug in the 12V compressor
5. Attach the compressor to the canister
6. Remove the dust cap from the valve
7. Attach the canister hose to the tire valve
8. Turn the canister upside down
9. At the top left of the compressor, there is a semi-circle recess
   • This is for the canister to sit in
10. Turn the compressor on
11. Empty the canister
12. Watch the pressure on the compressor
13. When the compressor reaches 39-40 psi, turn off
14. Remove the canister hose from the valve
15. Replace the dust cap

As before, move the car 5-10 meters and check the pressure. If the pressure is maintained, the tire is safe to drive. If the pressure drops below 19 psi, the tire needs more urgent attention, and you must call roadside assistance.

If the tire pressure is maintained – with either canister – you must confirm this with the computer. The tire pressure value must be reset with the touchscreen.

• Select Vehicle
• Select vehicle status
• Tire pressure correct
• Select ok

What to Do if Pressure Can’t be Maintained

Unfortunately, if the canister won’t do the trick, your tire has a bigger problem and will either need to be repaired at a tire shop or replaced. If you can’t maintain the tire pressure at 19 psi or above, the tire is unsafe to drive.

Calling Roadside Assist

If the tire is beyond repair with the kit, then calling roadside assistance is the only option. All VW iD4 are covered by three years / 36k miles of roadside assistance. Flat tires are included.

When you call Roadside Assist (1-800-411-6688), you must tell them exactly what the problem is and that you’re driving an iD4. EVs and iD4s can only be towed by a flatbed tow truck.

Evs can’t be towed with the front or rear wheels raised from the ground, as it can damage the drivetrain.

VW has good reports for the response time to roadside assistance, but this depends on your location and the time of day.

While you wait for the tow truck to arrive, you can ready your iD4 for towing. (Only if you feel comfortable doing so).

There is a towing eye located in the trunk of your iD4. It is in the very bottom layer of a foam container. It looks like a spoon with a hole in the top.

Retrieve it and go to the front of the car (only if it’s safe to do so). On the left-hand side of the bumper, there is a small circle. Press the side of the circle, and it will open.

Feed the towing eye into the hole and thread the bar counterclockwise until firmly in place.

When the tow truck arrives, you can drive up onto the flatbed or place the car in Neutral and winched on. No real damage will be done to your tire by driving an additional 5-10 meters. However, you need to be in the car for both circumstances, as the iD4 can’t be driven in Neutral without a driver.

The tow company will transport your car to a tire repair shop or a VW dealership. The most important thing to consider is that the repair shop might not have the current tire specification on your car, especially if they are original factory tires.

If your tire needs to be replaced, you can either order a tire from VW and have it delivered to the tire shop or suck it up and buy a new tire from the tire shop. Tires front and back need to be the same, so if the tire shop doesn’t have the same specification, then you will have to buy two new matching tires.

This is sometimes the better option, as tire shops will have tires that are on sale or discounted, where the tire from VW will not be reduced and can cost up to $400 by the time you pay for the tire shop labor.

Buying a Spare Tire

There are pros and cons to buying a spare tire. The pros are you’re never sitting at the side of the highway waiting for a tow truck to arrive. However, the iD4 doesn’t come with a jack. If you’re considering buying a spare tire, you’ll also have to buy a jack (sufficient enough to lift the weight of your iD4) and all the tools required to go along with it to remove your tire.

But if you do a lot of driving, where cell coverage is not great, then having a spare tire kit and all the extras that go with it is an excellent idea.

The major disadvantage is the space that it will occupy. There is no neatly designed hidden cavity for your spare tire, so your trunk space will be reduced.

There are kits available to purchase online. They contain a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench, and it’s all neatly packed in a bag. It might be worth investing at home if you know you’re going offroad or for an emergency. But the alternative option of Roadside Assist seems better, available 24/7, 365 days a year.

Canister Replacement

The last thing I’ll mention is the canister replacement. If you have used the canister to re-inflate a slow puncture, don’t forget to replenish the canister.

These can be purchased from any VW dealership. You don’t need to be stuck on the highway waiting for Roadside Assist, knowing that if you had replaced the canister, you could already be fixed and on your way.

I’ve covered a few common iD4 issues which, if you own an iD4 or are about to buy one, you might find useful:

• iD4 won’t charge
• iD4 not fully charging
• iD4 won’t unplug
• iD4 won’t stop beeping

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category right here.

The post Does an iD4 have a Spare Tire? Owners should know this! appeared first on EVjuicedup.

The most common reasons your VW iD4 will not to fully charge include:

• The upper charge limit is set to 80%
• Problem with your Level 2 charger
• Scheduled Charging is set

This article will examine why your VW iD4 is not fully charging, what to look for, and how to fix it.

Upper Charge Limit is Set to 80%

The most common reason your car is not fully charging is that the charge limit is below 100%. VW recommends that most charging is done at home using Level 1 or Level 2 charging.

If your daily routine is a short commute, the upper battery charge limit should be 80%.

The lower limit should be set to 20% if the climate is warm and not below 40% if conditions are below zero.

The upper limit should be 100% if you drive long distances daily.

So how does this explain why your iD4 hasn’t fully charged? When you set the vehicle to charge, you’re met with several options on the Infotainment screen.

They range from Current Location to Current Charge Level and, more importantly, the slider at the bottom, which displays the upper and lower charge limit (usually 20% – 80%).

If you have a location entered as ‘Home,’ then your car will recognize through GPS that it is at its Home and will charge to the Upper Charge Limit.

You can change this slider anytime, but charging 80% is fine if you regularly charge.

The reason behind the 80% charge is to protect your Lithium-Ion batteries. Continually charging your Lithium-Ion to 100% will, over time, degrade the battery and ultimately shorten its life. The same can be said for the lower limit. Allowing your battery to deplete completely is damaging to your battery.

Using a fast charger will generate more heat in your batteries, so it’s even more important only to charge 80% when using a fast charger.

So why don’t they just have the charging level lower? I hear you ask. Although the charge displays 80%, your battery always has a buffer charge. You should not rely on it; it’s designed to prevent stranded iD4s.

Problem With Your Level 2 Charger

Another reason your car does not fully charge is a problem with your Level 2 charging cable. It could be:

1. Damaged cable
2. Cable is not fully compatible

Damaged Cable

Your charging cable is made of sturdy stuff. Thick insulated plastic/rubber. But they are prone to some abuse. They can get dropped on the floor, left out in the elements, but worst of all, get driven across with your car wheels.

Driving across your cable can cause damage to the internal wiring. This results in your car not charging or, worse, your car charging intermittently.

This can explain why you go to your car in the morning and only have a minimal amount of charge. Your car has been trying to charge on and off all night but hasn’t entirely made the grade.

If your cable is damaged, replacing it is the best and only solution. Damaged cables can lead to exposed wires, which can cause serious injury and harm.

Cable Not Fully Compatible

A cable is a cable, right? Well, not quite. Your iD4 comes with a Level 1 charging cable, but let’s be honest unless you never go anywhere, it’s not a practical solution to charging. It can take up to 50 hours with a Level 1.

A Level 2 makes much more sense. It will charge your car to full overnight, but in some instances, not every cable suits every Electric Vehicle. EVs are becoming increasingly prevalent in people’s lives, and your iD4 may not be your first EV. It may be your second EV or an additional one in your household.

But you can’t assume what charges your Leaf (for example) will be the best choice for your iD4.

This could be because your Leaf and its cable have some years on them, and the extra cable usage on a second EV is putting strain on it. Your iD4 deserves the best Level 2 cable you can afford. They range from $300 to $700.

The price difference is the difference between Hard Wired and Portable. The hard-wired is available up to 48A, but to be honest, it’s not that much quicker than the 40A, but a good bit more expensive. A professional electrician must also install hardwire chargers; this can cost up to $1500 and may not suit everyone if you live in an apartment or rent.

The portable chargers also offer different variants of NEMA 14-50 and NEMA 13-10. They are less expensive and also require less work to install.

When you’re buying your iD4, ask your dealership which Level 2 they recommend. They might have a promotion available with a local store.

But the main thing is not to assume that the cable you have at home already is fully compatible with your iD4.

Scheduled Charging is Set

Scheduled Charging in the iD4 is not as intuitive as you would like. In fact, if you check out some VW forums online, there are a lot of angry complaints about it being so glitchy and not working so well. VW is relatively new to the EV market. Everyone is playing catch up with Tesla, which is streets ahead in terms of technology.

But, with each update, VW gets a bit better, and the iD4 is a super-smart-looking car, so I certainly will give VW some wriggle room.

Scheduled Charging is an option in your car settings to allow you to charge your car at the optimum time, usually at night when electricity is at its cheapest.

But unfortunately, it doesn’t always kick in, and you can arrive at your car ready for your commute only to realize it hasn’t been fully charged. And this is not good!

There are things you need to put in process to avoid half charge the next morning:

• Go to the Vehicle Settings Menu
• Select the Location Pin (through GPS)
• Add a name – such as Home
• Select the timer to set the schedule
• Set a Departure Time
• Set the day of departure
• Activate it by checking the box beside the time
• Plug in your cable

The difference between iD4 charging and other EVs is that the Scheduled Charging is calculated on your Departure Time. If you don’t enter a Departure Time, then the charging may not happen.

The computers calculate how long it will take to charge and work backward from your Departure Time. But as we know, lots of variables can happen in the interim. Loss of connection, loss of power.

VW has no plans to change how Scheduled Charging works, but charging your EV is the most important thing about your EV. It’s vital that it is reliable and works every time.

I’ve covered a few of the other common iD4 issues which you hopefully won’t experience, but if you do, we have you covered with these posts:

• iD4 won’t charge
• iD4 won’t unplug
• iD4 won’t stop beeping
• iD4 not connecting

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category.

The post iD4 Not Fully Charging – Solved! appeared first on EVjuicedup.

The most common reasons your iD4 is beeping include:

• The door or trunk is open
• Problem with the proximity sensor
• A software update is needed

In this article, we’ll examine why the VW iD4 is beeping, how to diagnose it, and how to fix it.

Door or Trunk is Open

The most common reason that your iD4 is beeping is that something is not fully closed. Be it a door or the trunk.

There should be a dash notification. You’ll need to check all doors to ensure they are fully closed.

Stop the car (if you are moving) and Shift to Park. Do a walk around to see if any of the doors are visibly open. If they are, firmly close them. This can often be an item of clothing or some form of trash caught in the trunk mechanism.

If you have checked all openings, found nothing, securely closed all the doors, and you still have a beeping, you may have an onboard sensor giving trouble.

Contact your local VW Service Center and explain the issue. Book it in for a check. It might just need a Software Update. (More on this later)

Problem with the Proximity Sensor

In nearly all modern-day cars, your iD4 included having exterior sensors fitted to make your driving experience safer and more enjoyable.

They range from cameras to radar sensors. Cameras allow you to physically see what’s behind your car via the infotainment screen. I have one in my recently purchased new car. I find it a fantastic asset, but not one I’m fully happy using yet. This is just because I’m not used to it because it can see where I can’t.

The radars are for lane assist and for blind spots where the car sends out waves that bounce back if an object is sensed in proximity.

If something is too close, the sensors will beep. But why is it beeping when you’re not near anything? There are two possible reasons:

1. Dirt or Ice/Snow
2. Fault

Dirt or Ice/ Snow on the Sensor

It’s always good to keep your iD4 as clean as possible, even more so when cars have external parking sensors.

If there is dirt build-up on the sensors, you won’t be able to use them, but also they may beep incessantly. The same can be said for Ice and Snow. More so, snow as it is opaque and will completely obscure the camera but also leads the computer sensors to believe there’s something in direct proximity to the car.

During extreme weather conditions, washing your car may not be possible. But this won’t stop you from filling a basin with water. Make sure you choose a soft microfibre cloth and detergent specifically designed for auto care. Household detergent is too harsh for your car’s paintwork.

Gently clean over the cameras at the rear. The camera is located in the center of the trunk door, above the license plate, which you would ordinarily grab if you were to open the trunk physically.

Don’t rub too hard; you don’t want to scratch the paintwork.

The radar sensors are small round disks, about the size of a dime, and are located at the front and rear of the car on the bumpers. Again use a gentle detergent and microfibre cloth if there’s a lot of dirt, and change out your water a few times.

If the sensor is beeping because of snow, you can remove your snow brush and gently spray it with De-Icer to keep it clear.

Fault in a Sensor

If you have cleaned your iD4 and checked all around your exterior, and nothing appears to be in proximity, but your dash tells you differently, then there’s more likely to be a fault in one of the sensors. You will have to call VW Service Center to make an appointment. You can tell them you have checked over the car, and nothing is obscuring the cameras or sensors.

Alternatively, you can check for a software update. We’ll discuss this next.

Software Update is Needed

Towards the end of 2021, VW introduced OTA (over-the-air) updates for all its iD models. This is a fantastic move forward, as you can now do all updates within your car. Previously you had to download it to a chip or flash drive and then upload it to your car’s system.

If you are having error readings or your iD4 is beeping for reasons you can’t explain, it could mean that an update is available and needs to be installed.

You should receive an email, but if not, when you start your car, you’ll see that your dash is full of warning lights, telling you that items are not available such as Lane Assist and Sign Post Reading, temporarily suspended.

When you look at the Infotainment screen, there will be an extra line at the top that is not ordinarily visible. It says ‘Update Available.’ The update won’t start until you confirm it and won’t initiate while driving.

The car must not be running, and you must leave and lock the car while the update is installed.

You can check out the updated information in:

• Settings
• System Information

It will tell you the available update and the time it will take – this can be anything up to 3-4 hours. You must agree on the license agreement and leave and lock your car. Your car must charge at least 50% before initiating an update.

Updates are sometimes broken into two parts. Part two might not become available for several weeks, but hopefully, as time goes by, these will become a single update or closer together in time.

It takes up to 10 minutes for the update to begin. You can check on your car, it will show you a progress bar, but you won’t be able to start your car or drive it until the update is complete.

When it’s complete, you can start your car as normal. You will be asked to select ok to finish/ complete the update.

All the error codes on your dash and screen will hopefully be gone, and there will be no more beeping.

It’s very important to keep your iD4 software up to date. Updates are almost always about fixing bugs and glitches and intermittently about a complete overhaul. You may not even be able to pinpoint what has changed in your system.

I’ve covered a few of the other common iD4 issues which you hopefully won’t experience, but if you do, we have you covered with these posts:

• iD4 won’t charge
• iD4 won’t fully charge
• iD4 won’t unplug
• iD4 not connecting

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category.

The post iD4 Won’t Stop Beeping – Do this to keep your sanity! appeared first on EVjuicedup.

The three most common reasons VW iD4 won’t charge include:

1. No power at the port
2. Faulty Cable
3. Faulty Fast Charger

In this article, we’ll cover the top three reasons why your iD4 won’t charge, how to diagnose it, and finally, what you can do to fix it right now!

1. No Power at the Port

The number one reason for your iD4 not charging is that no power is going to the car. This can be for several reasons, but you can quickly check your charging port to see what light is showing.

When you go to the car port, the light will either be Green – White, or Red.

Reasons why the Light is RED

• No power at the house
• Poor connection in your cable
• Scheduled Charging didn’t work

No Power at the House

More and more frequently, we have power outages, from over-stretching the grid to climate challenges. Most EV owners charge their cars overnight, at home, so it’s a real pain to go out to your car in the morning and realize that it hasn’t fully charged.

You may not have realized there was an outage. My go-to check is the clock on the oven. If it’s flashing, I know the power has been down at some stage during the night. If your power has returned in the interim, you can continue to charge or evaluate if you have enough range to get you where you need to go or to a fast charger.

If you haven’t, you must postpone your trip and charge until the range increases.

Poor Connection in your Cable

Your cable might receive some power but not enough for a full charge or intermittently. A partial connection can cause this. This is more likely to be your wall connection rather than the car. The onboard computers check that a complete seal is being made at the carport before charging begins.

But at the wall, it can be just a standard 240V plug (your cable may be hard-wired. If it is, this won’t apply to you). Someone may have accidentally tugged at the cable and loosened the plug, and it’s no longer fully plugged in but enough to send some power.

Check the connection to see if this is the case. If it is, then you can reset the plug and charge on. Again you may have enough range to get you where you are going, but if not, at least you know why it has happened, and it’s an easy fix.

Scheduled Charging Didn’t Work

Your car didn’t charge because of power issues because you had a scheduled charging setup, and it didn’t kick in.

You set up the scheduled charging through your app on the phone, but this can be a bit glitchy. The times set in your app don’t always match or correspond with the ones in your car. This can cause confusion, and ultimately, no charge happens; the charge is at a much lower amp level or will only charge for a short period.

Any or all of these scenarios result in your car with zero or very low range.

To solve the conflict, reset the timing schedule on both your car and your app to match, and set the minimum charging level to 80%.

2. Faulty Charging Cable

If you have established that your charging problems are not because of a lack of power, then your cable could be the source of your problem.

Cables give problems when they are damaged, not fully seated, or faulty.

Charging cables are made of sturdy heavy-duty plastic, but you still have to take care of them. The biggest culprit of damaging your cable is your car. If you drive across the cable repeatedly, this will cause irreparable damage. Your iD4 is heavy; at 4665 lbs, it’s heavier than any standard Teslas.

To check your cable, first, unplug both ends and look for any damage, cracks, or breaks in the line. You must unplug both ends so no charge is in the cable. A high-voltage cable can cause burns or fatal shock if exposed.

Also, check each end where the connection to the car and wall happens. Pulling or plugging in at an angle can cause these two places also to have damage.

If you find any damage, you must order a new cable.

The iD4 comes with a Level 1 EVSE, which will only charge your car at 2 miles / kW-hr. We will be living on Mars by the time you charge 100% with this.

The better option is the Level 2 – 240V which comes in various amps. If you are considering installing, I will go for the 40amp; it gives 37-38 miles/kW hr compared to the 48 amp at 42 miles, which is little or no difference but much more expensive.

There are several brands available such as Juice Box or ChargePoint. VW has its own Level 2 charger, but it’s currently only available to the European market.

3. Faulty Fast Charger

Anyone purchasing an iD4 will receive three years of Free, fast charging with Electrify America.

VW pretty much installed and paid for the Electrify America Network. This was to apologize for the Dieselgate scandal – 3 years of free charging is fantastic. But charging a VW EV is just not as intuitive as you would wish or hope for at an EA fast charger.

This can lead to your iD4 not charging.

When you arrive at an Electrify America Fast Charging Station, you’ll need to follow the following process:

• Open your app
• Plug in the charger
• Select the location of the charger in your app
• Select the specific charger at the station
• Select the correct cable (if there are two available)
• Swipe to begin charging

A lot of steps, and far from plug-and-play. Why do we need all these steps? But more importantly, what if your phone is out of service? No charging is possible. What if your phone is dead? No charging is possible.

It seems peculiar that VW installed this network, and yet other EVs that use it have a plug-in and charge system, i.e., the Ford Mach-E. How can it be that the car owned by the EA creators must go through this whole app setup before you can charge?

This creates all kinds of charging issues. As I mentioned, if you have no service on your phone, you can’t connect to the app to detect which charger you are parked at. If you plug in and select the incorrect cable (i.e., No1 instead of No2), you must begin the process again. It is very frustrating and, hopefully, something that EA will work on in the future.

The EA stations are not serviced and monitored as well as they could be. You pull up to the charger, plug it in, and nothing happens due to a cable or charger fault. You then have to move to another space. But it might happen again.

Do you leave and go in search of another EA charging station? What is your range? Will you make it? It leads to high-stress situations where users lose faith in the free, fast chargers.

Aside from this, the charging stations listed on your navigation screen are not EA but general Destination Chargers or other fast chargers. To source the EA fast chargers, you must go to the app on your phone. Again you may not have data or service on your phone to complete this.

I don’t believe your car’s charging should rely on another device.

Using a fast charger is not a necessity. Most EV owners charge at home, and although problems can occur at home, they tend to be easier problems to fix.

EV drivers’ biggest fear is range, which becomes stratospheric when you can’t charge.

I’ve covered a few of the other common iD4 issues which you hopefully won’t experience, but if you do, we have you covered with these posts:

• iD4 not fully charging
• iD4 won’t stop beeping
• iD4 won’t unplug
• iD4 not connecting

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category.

The post iD4 Won’t Charge – Top 3 Reasons appeared first on EVjuicedup.

To release a stuck VW iD4 charge plug after charging, try:

1. Unlocking the vehicle
2. Call the Charging Customer Service Center
3. Manually release the plug

In this post, you’ll learn why your VW iD4 won’t unplug and what you can do to fix it right now!

1 Unlock the Vehicle

Whether you have been charging your iD4 at home overnight or at a fast charger, there’s nothing more frustrating than being unable to unplug your charger from your car.

At home

If you have been charging at home, you more than likely have done this through the night, and it’s early morning, and you could definitely do without the extra hassle.

When you go to the car port the light will either be Green – White, or Red.

To unplug your charger, the light needs to be solid green or pulsing green. If this is the case, you should, in theory, be able to unplug your charger.

If you try and remove the charger, the lock will not release. If the car is still charging, you will need to stop charging. Your car needs to be unlocked for the charger to release. Hit the fob 2-3 times. You can also stop the charging on the infotainment screens, but the fob is the quickest solution.

At a Charging Station

The same can be said for a charging station. The charger has to be locked in place. You may be at a mall and are leaving your car while charging. Your vehicle needs to be locked so no one can steal your car. The instinct is to return to your car, grab the charger, and try to remove it.

Your car must be unlocked for the onboard computer to know it’s safe to release. That someone is not attempting to steal your car. Hit the fob 2-3 times, and the car will unlock, the charger will release, and you can return it to the cradle.

You may have pulled the charger too hard on your return, so if it still seems stuck, gently push it toward the car and then try removing it.

2 Call the Charging Station Customer Service

If you are at a charging station (i.e., Electrify America)and have finished charging and tapped your fob, but no release has happened, there is possibly a problem with the charging station. Every Electrify America Charger has a customer service number (1-833-632-2778).

On the top of every charger, there is a number. This represents the location and the particular charger you are plugged into.

You can tell customer service this information, and they can check their end if there is an issue with that particular charger. They can send a signal to disconnect your car.

For your car to charge at a fast charger, the cable from the charger to your car has to communicate with your car’s computer. Charging can’t begin until the onboard computer talks to the fast charger and both units are happy that the connection is safe and secure.

Subsequently, when you finish charging, both ends have to agree that you are done. Sometimes this doesn’t go to plan, and Customer Service has to release it. But what happens when you can’t get in contact with Electrify America? Read on to find out how to release the charger from your car manually.

3 Manually Disconnect Your Charger

There’s always the chance that there is no reply from Customer Service or there is no number posted on the charging station; you may not be at an Electrify America. (You should aim to charge at EA, as all iD4s have Free charging for the first three years – it makes sense). But as I say, you may be at a station without support.

Your charger is stuck. You’ve tried locking and unlocking your car with the fob. You’ve told it to stop charging onscreen, but it still won’t release.

Thankfully VW has a built-in Manual Release system for the charger.

The process looks like this:

• Open the trunk
• On the side that corresponds with your charging port, there is a small round-cornered rectangle outline (in the same material as the trunk)
• There is a small black plastic circle latch
• Turn the latch
• You will have to tear the perforated edge of the rectangle
• Behind it, you will find two pull loops (Usually Yellow, but not always)
• One has a tag, and one doesn’t
• DO NOT PULL THE ONE WITH THE TAG
• This is to disconnect your battery (in the event of an emergency)
• Gently pull the loop with NO tag
• This will manually release the charger
• Replace the rectangle cover and circle latch (To be honest, VW needs to revisit this engineering. It will never sit properly again once you have removed it). It’s not very accessible to view the two loops, especially if it’s dark. Pulling the incorrect one is possible, leading to a bigger problem.

Avoid Charging in Certain Conditions

Certain weather conditions are not suited to charging. Charging at your home usually occurs inside a garage or under a carport, which is not heated but certainly warmer than outside.

But at a fast charger, we are exposed to the elements. This, for the most part, is entirely acceptable, but if the weather is below zero, I advise against using a fast charger. And it’s a definite No if it’s snowing or freezing rain.

Freezing rain is the worst option. However, it is safe to charge while it’s raining. And we know there are plenty of states that have rain year around. As I mentioned, the high voltage will not begin until a complete seal has been made.

Freezing rain, though, can introduce an extra complication. As you connect your charger, it actually freezes in place and can’t be disconnected when you’re finished.

You don’t want to damage anything by pulling it off, which can be problematic. Don’t be tempted to pour anything hot over it (i.e., coffee). You can’t be 100% sure that a complete seal has occurred, and you could damage the connection irreparably.

Some people recommend hair dryers or hot water bottles, but who has these available at a fast charger?

The safest and best solution is to set your car to a precondition. This tells your car to heat everything that needs to be heated to drive, including the charge port.

You may have to wait a while. It may happen a little quicker if you have a jacket to throw over the port, but only if it’s waterproof.

As the car heats up, the charge port will eventually thaw and release the charger. Unless it’s absolutely crucial, my advice is to avoid charging in freezing conditions.

I’ve covered a few of the other common iD4 issues which you hopefully won’t experience, but if you do, we have you covered with these posts:

• iD4 won’t charge
• iD4 not fully charging
• iD4 not connecting
• iD4 won’t stop beeping

If you are curious about other EV models, check out the EV FAQ category.

The post iD4 Won’t Unplug – Fixed! appeared first on EVjuicedup.